Friday, April 17, 2009

Koh‐i‐Noor: Empire, Diamonds, and the Performance of British Material Culture

A Tale of Two Cities: The Aftermath of Partition for Lahore and Amritsar 1947–1957

Such modern cities as Breslau and Smyrna have suffered widespread destruction and demographic transformation in the wake of armed invasion. The neighbouring Punjabi cities of Lahore and Amritsar shared this experience, at the time of the 1947 division of the Indian subcontinent. Almost 40 per cent of Amritsar's houses were destroyed or damaged and its Muslim population fell from 49 per cent of the population on the eve of partition to just 00.52 per cent in 1951. Six thousand houses were damaged in Lahore and its Hindu and Sikh population who formed over a third of the population departed for India. The Luftwaffe had destroyed some 4185 houses in Coventry in an air raid for ever associated with the concept of concentrated bombing. The greater damage in peacetime Lahore and Amritsar was a result of disturbances surrounding the end of British rule. The cities lay at the heart of the region which bore the brunt of the 1947 upheaval. Ten million Punjabis were uprooted. In all around 13 million people were displaced by partition. This was the largest migration in a century whose wars and ethnic conflicts rendered millions of people homeless. The cities' proximity to the border (see map.) meant that they received large numbers of refugees. There were a million in Lahore alone in April 1948, two fifths of whom were housed in camps.

Lahore: The city of Mughal Empires

Lahore is the capital of Punjab and the second largest city of Pakistan. Its present population is 6.5 million. Located near the Indian border, Lahore is one the thirty largest cities of the world.

Lahore is famous for its Mughal architectures. During the reign of Akbar, the greatest of all the Mughal emperors, Lahore served as the nation’s capital. Mughal emperors built many buildings and monuments around Lahore. These famous monuments include: Shalimar garden, Badshahi Mosque, Lahore Fort, Jahangir's tomb, NoorJehan's tomb etc. Among other tourist attractions there are: old city and Lahore museum. If you are interested to visit Lahore, then another surprising fact you should know that in Lahore restaurants remain opened all night.

Since, Lahore is the second largest city of Pakistan, it plays an important role in Pakistan’s economy. Lahore Stock Exchange (LSE), is the second biggest stock exchange after Karachi Stock Exchange. Some of the major government organizations such as, Water and Power Development Authority (WAPDA), Water & Sanitation Agency (WASA) are headquartered in Lahore. Other public organizations: Deewan Motors, Habib Bank, Pakistan State Oil and Lever Brothers are situated in Lahore. Foundaries, steel mills, textile mills and chemical factories are the major manufacturing industries of Lahore.

Lahore has also a thriving IT infrastructure. Some of the major Pakistani IT companies: FiveRivers Technologies, NetSol Technologies Inc, Systems Limited, TechLogix, Xvor are situated here.

Lahore is also famous for its carpet industry. The hand knotted carpet is one of the leading export products of Pakistan.

A good number of educational institutions are situated in Lahore. Aitchison College, Lahore American School, Lahore Medical & Dental College, Oriental College Of Arts, Government College University, Iqra University, Lahore College for Women University, University College of Information Technology (PUCIT) and many other institutions are situated in Lahore.

By road, Lahore is very well connected with the rest of the country. The historical Grand Trank road goes through Lahore. In addition, a motor way (M2) was built between Lahore and Islamabad. Lahore has the highest number of underpasses. The headquarter of Pakistan Railway is situated in Lahore. Lahore Central Railway Station is located at the center of the city. The Allama Iqbal International Airport, named after the national poet of Pakistan is an international airport.

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Historic Lahore Attractions

At a Glance

Lahore, being an ancient city, is full of architectural treasures. Lahore Museum, which has the most and the finest Mughal artifacts in the world, is a place to start. Minar-e-Pakistan, Badshahi Mosque and Shalimar Gardens are synonymous with the word Lahore. Tomb of Jahangir, Noor Jahan and Badshahi Mosque have magnificent architecture, as do many other buildings across Lahore.

Lahore is also the shoppers paradise. It has many markets and traditional bazaars. Anarkali is perhaps the most famous of the traditional Lahore bazaars.

Minar-e-Pakistan

In the middle of Iqbal Park in Lahore stands Minar-e-Pakistan, a tall concrete minaret which was built as a tribute to the creation of Pakistan.

This is the exact place where in 1940, the Muslim League passed the famous Lahore Resolution, which demanded a separate homeland for the Muslims of India.

Minar-e-Pakistan is about 60 meters in height. The tower base is raised approximately four meters from the ground and it rises up to approximately 13 meters, forming a sculpted, flower-like base. From this point it tapers as it rises. The base platform is shaped like a five-pointed star and it encloses crescent shaped pools. It is constructed of reinforced concrete, with the floors and walls rendered in stone and marble. Now it is officially recognized as the National Monument of Pakistan.

The Minar-e-Pakistan was designed by Murad Khan, a Turkish architect.


Minar-e-Pakistan
Related links:
View Iqbal Park from Google Earth
See Lahore on Map


Badshahi Mosque

Close to Minar-e-Pakistan is the magnificent Badshahi mosque, built under the patronage of the sixth Mughal Emperor, Aurangzeb Alamgir. The moque was completed in 1673 under the supervision of Aurangzeb’s foster brother Muzaffar Hussain who was appointed governor of Lahore in May of 1671 and held this post until 1675.

The Badshahi mosque is adjacent to Lahore Fort, one of the most splendid examples of Mughal architecture in Pakistan. The mosque is one of the largest building made during the reign of Aurangzeb, and in terms of space, it is one of the largest mosque in the Indian subcontinent. The area within the mosque measures approximately 150 meters on each side.

The mosque is raised pretty high from the ground level, and steps lead to the main court yard. The Badshahi mosque has close resembles to the Friday Mosque built by Shah Jahan in his new capital, adjoining the Red Fort, in Delhi, although the Badshahi Mosque is a grander structure.


Badshahi Mosque

Badshahi Mosque



Shalimar Gardens

The gardens are a masterpiece from the time of the Mughal civilization, which reached its height during the reign of the Emperor Shah Jahan. The gardens were commissioned by Shah Jahan in 1637. The fort contains marble palaces and mosques decorated with mosaics and gilt. The elegance of these splendid gardens, built near the city of Lahore on three terraces with lodges, waterfalls and large ornamental ponds, is unequalled.

Each garden is divided by canals and flowerbeds, following the Persian tradition of the charbagh, or fourfold garden. Each of the 3 parts is on a different level, so that the upper parts are concealed from the view of people entering from below. The highest, and therefore the most private, section is thought to have been used by the imperial women. The channels of water that weave through the whole garden are fed by canals designed and administered by a defector from the Persian court, Ali Mardan Khan, or Inayat Khan, known for his architectural and building expertise. The gardens contain white marble buildings in typical Shah Jahani style. They are enclosed by a red sandstone wall interrupted by small decorative kiosks. The Shalimar Gardens are among the best preserved Mughal gardens.

The Shalimar Gardens are laid out in the form of an oblong parallelogram, surrounded by a high brick wall, which is famous for its intricate fretwork. The gardens measure 658 meters north to south and 258 meters east to west.

In 1981, Shalimar Gardens was included as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, under the UNESCO Convention concerning the protection of the world's cultural and natural heritage sites in 1972.

Shalamar Gardens

Shalamar Gardens

Related Links:
Mughal Gardens
UNESCO




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Lahore City Tour/Tour of Lahore/Mughul treasure Lahore in Punjab

AHORE CITY

Tour Highlights
Shahlimar Garden[b/] 5km east of the old city, are the famous Shalimar Gardens, laid out by the Mughul Emperor Shah Jehan in 1642 AD. Shahlimar Garden have the privilege of being the venue of all-important State receptions.

Flag Ceremony at Wagha Wagha is the only land border open between Pakistan and India. The check post is about 30km from Lahore. A daily flag-lowering ceremony is simultaneously held on the Pakistani and Indian sides at sunset.

Lahore Fort a major part of Royal Fort was constructed around 1566 by the Mughul emperor Akabr the Great, on the remains of an old mud fort, dating back to 10th century AD. Every succeed Mughul Emperor, as well as Sikh and the British, added a pavilion, place or wall to the fort. Emperor Jahangir extended the gardens and constructed the places in Jehangir's Quadrangle, while Shah Jahan added Diwan-e-Khas, Moti Masjid and his sleeping chambers. Aurangzeb build the impressive main gate. The famous Sheesh Mahal (the mirror place) is in the northwest corner of the fort.

Badshahi Mosque The mosque was build by the emperor Aurangzeb, the last of the great Mughul, in 1974. it has beautiful gateway, measuring 21.33 meters in length and is build up entirely of red sandstone. The courtyards measure 161.5mx160.60 meters, the largest mosque courtyard in the world for outdoor prayers. The marble domes covers 7 chambers. Four minarets stand at the four corners of the mosque, each with an outer circumference of 20 meters, soaring up to 54 meters.

Mausoleum of Emperor Jahangir it lie 5km northwest of Lahore across the river Ravi. The mausoleum has majestic structure made of red sandstone and marble. A perfect stetting with typical Mughul garden, speaks volumes about its design and architecture. Queen Noor Jahan and emperor's son. Shah Jehan build the tomb around 1637. in a courtyard next to Jehangir's tomb, lie buried his brother I law, Asif Jah, father of queen Arjumad Bano.

Noor Jehan's Tomb The empress Noor Jehan, "light of the world" was the only empress whose name appeared on the coins of the Mughul Empire. She was buried in 1645 at Shahdara, near Jahangir's Mausoleum.

Lahore Museum Situated opposite the old University Hall, it is Mughul style building on the Shahrah-e-Quid-i-Azam. The museum contains the finest specimens of Mughul and Sikh doorways and woodwork, and has big collection of paintings dated back to Indo-Pakistan, Mughul, Sikh and British times.

The Old City In the Mughul days the old city was surrounded by a nine meter high brick wall. A circular road around the rampart gave access to the city through 13 gates. Some of these gates are still preserved. In the Bazaar of the old city, one still comes across the tiny shops where craftsmen can be seen busy turning out masterpieces in copper, brass, silver, as well as textiles in traditional fashion.

Wazir Khan Mosque Situated in the old part of town, it is the most beautiful mosque of South Asia. The mosque was build in 1683 by Hakim Wazir Khan, a minister to Shah Jehan. It is a marvelous specimen of arabesque painting and work.

The Golden Mosque Situated in the Kashmiri Bazaar, it is remarkably beautiful mosque with three golden domes.

Shrines of Data Sahib Situated close to the lower mall and the circular road outside Bhaiti Gate.

Anarkali Bazaar Is the most fascinating of the city's many bazaars. The alleys and lanes of Anarkali are full of exciting wares, especially crafts like leather ware, embroidered garments, glass bangles, beaten gold and silver jewelers etc.

When Re 1 separated Lahore from holy city

Believe it or not, from Amritsar one could go to Lahore by train by spending hardly Re 1 on a ticket. Many would go to Lahore on their bicycles. Wagha, now internationally known as Wagha Border, was an unknown place.

Recalling the pre-partition days spent in Amritsar, Som Dutt Vasudeva, a former additional advocate general, Himachal Pradesh, said hundreds of Amritsaris would go to Lahore every day to see the ancient city, full of architectural treasures and famous as the finest Mughal artifact in the world. Lahore was also famous for being shoppers’ paradise.

Legend has it that Lahore was founded more than 4000 years ago and named after Luv, son of Lord Rama.

Excited about the days spent in the twin cities (Amritsar and Lahore), Vasudeva says he could forget Anarkali Bazar, Shalmi Gate, Tibbi Bazar, dargah of Data Gunj Baksh and Sitla Mata Mandir, outside Shalmi Gate, even after a lapse of more than 60 years. Panjab University, University Law College, Government College, Lahore, where it was difficult to get admission in those days, were also places of interest. Thus it was rightly said a person who had not visited Lahore had, in fact, not born.

Resident of Sultanwind village on the fringes of Amritsar, Vasudeva remained on the rolls of Hindu Sabha College from 1944 to 1948. Earlier, he passed his matric from Hindu Sabha High School, Amritsar, after studying up to eighth class in Bhishan Das S.D.High School, Empress Road, Lahore.

Walking down the memory lane, Vasudeva says life in Amritsar then was worth living. In fact, it was a pollution-free city. The Company Bagh - the Summer Palace of Maharaja Ranjit Singh - and its surrounding areas used to be full of residents in the evenings who would come for stroll. Even Saketri Bagh, outside Chattiwind Gate, used to be visited by residents of nearby localities and also people from outside city. The Upper Bari Doab Canal, near the city, used to be visited by number of people on holidays, especially on Sundays, for picnic in the pre-partition days and the “Taran Wala Pul” on the Jallandhar-Amritsar national highway provided a good spot for taking bath and for diving in the canal.

The nearby mini-hydro-electric substation was operated by irrigation department officials. One could see groups of picnic revellers enjoying the salubrious climate and preparing mouth-watering dishes. Hindus and Muslims used to enjoy picnics together on holidays. Vasudeva rues that after the partition due to the apathy of the authorities concerned, the picnic spot near the city was completely neglected. In his views, it needs to be revived and also the hydro-electric substation.

Lahore - The City of Gardens

Lahore - The City of Gardens

Lahore, currently the capital city of the province of Punjab in Pakistan has been the cultural center of Northern India extending from Peshawar to New Delhi for thousands of years. Lahore is a city of culture, of history, of an unsurpassed charm that is unique from every other city. The city has stood witness to generations of cultural, intellectual, musical and literary evolution, which has gradually resulted in a potpourri that is evident in Lahore’s rich cultural heritage. Lahore is famous for its renowned poets, artists and craftsmen. Apart from being the cultural and intellectual centre of the country, the city is home to some of the most stunning architecture dating back to the Mughal period. For more than two centuries, beginning from about 1524 AD Lahore has been the favored capital and a thriving cultural centre of the great Mughal Empire. The Mughal Emperors have left the city with a legacy of magnificent palaces, perfectly manicured gardens and majestic mosques.

Legend has it that Lahore was founded four thousand years ago and named after Luv, son of Lord Rama. Lahore came under Muslim rule in the early years of the 11th century, and became a focus of attention for Islamic culture. Strategically positioned on the main trade routes of South Asia, Lahore has seen the birth and death of many dynasties, having been ruled by several of them. Muslim rule began here when Qutub-ud-din Aibak was crowned in Lahore in 1206 and reached the apex of its glory during the Mughal rule from 1524 to 1752. The Mughals, who are known for their fine aesthetic sense, have given Lahore some of its grandest architectural monuments. Akbar ruled the country from Lahore for 14 years from 1584 to 1598. The Lahore Fort was built by him; he also surrounded the city with a red brick wall. Emperor Jahangir and Shah Jahan further extended the fort, built palaces and tombs, and laid out gardens.

The last of the great Mughals, Aurangzeb built Lahore’s most famous monument, the massive Badshahi Masjid and the splendid Alamgiri gateway to the fort. The mughals were followed by the British who came into power in 1849 and constructed many monuments and bungalows in Mughal-Gothic style. The Lahore Cantonment is perhaps the best example of the British style of architecture with wide tree-lined boulevards and sprawling bungalows. Every section of the city has a story to tell, which is apparent in the monuments, the bazaars, the old buildings lining the Mall and in the people of Lahore.

Spread over fifty acres, Lahore Fort is located in the northwest corner of the Walled City. The fort was built by Mughal Emperor Jalaluddin Muhammad Akbar during Akbar's reign between 1556 and 1605. Succeeding Mughal emperor including the Sikhs and the British all added to the original construction, making it a unique structure which represents a complete history of the architectural influences in Lahore. The fort boasts of two imposing gates on the east and the west sides. The western gate, known as Alamgiri Gate, a magnificent double-storey gate is presently used as the main entrance.

Alamgiri Gate was built by Emperor Mohiuddin Aurangezeb Alamgir in 1673, faces the grand Badshahi Mosque while opening into Hazuri Bagh. Garden of Public Audience or Maidan Diwan-e-Aam is located on the southern section and is the most important element of Mughal court ceremonial spaces. It was destroyed during the Sikh occupancy and Inter-Sikh wars and many cells were destroyed to construct artillery and infantry barracks when the Mughal fort served as a British cantonment. Diwan-e-Aam lies on the northern side of the garden and is the focal point of all activity. The Diwan-e-Aam is constructed on a raised platform surrounded by a stone railing with a marble jharoka dominating the centre. Daulat Khana-e-Khass-o-Aam is well designed and acts as a transition from the highly public area of the Diwan-e-Aam to the private residential apartments of the Emperor’s harem. The original ornate walls and embellishments are destroyed by the imperceptive Sikh painting sketched on top and British stark whitewashes having buried most of the Mughal art. In spite of the loss of surface decoration, evidence of the delicately embellished architecture can be seen in the dainty latticed jharokas and finely sculpted arches. The small but beautiful Makatib Khana is located in the northwest corner of the Maidan Diwan-e-Aam. It was designed by one of the most accomplished Mughal architects—Abdul Karim titled Mamur Khan, a favorite of both Jahangir and Shah Jahan.

One of the earliest structures of the period is Jahangir's Quadrangle which was begun by Akbar and completed by Jahangir in 1618. Jahangir's Quadrangle consists of private imperial apartments and a harem. It offers some of the prettiest view, overlooking the vast countryside.
Mashriqi and Maghribi are twin two-storey, separate havelis located at either side of Jehangir's Quadrangle. These mansions were especially built for the favored members of the royal household may it be a favorite concubine, the queen mother or a favorite daughter such as Jahan Ara Begam.

These havelis are exquisitely detailed with great attention given to its design. The columns on the portico, the carved brackets, the dainty arches are all embellished with delicate designs all over. These historically significant havelis are currently a part of a group of havelis known as Chuna Mandi Havelis. From its sprawling courtyards to its royal baths and from its arched hallways to its zenana gardens, the building is breathtakingly beautiful. But, perhaps what is far more important is that the haveli is well looked after and is being utilized as a college and every corner has been put to constructive use. It currently houses the Government Fatima Jinnah College for Women Conservation work on the haveli was carried out by the Lahore Development Authority before it was converted into a college. The college is fascinating and it is not surprising to find students sitting in a math class that is bang next to a royal bath, or crossing a dark alley that would lead them to their department. The roof tops exhibit the old city and one can spot the Lahore Fort, Badshahi Mosque and the Minar-e-Pakistan.

The Sikh rulers of the Punjab have left their stamp on Lahore in its music, painting, architecture and dance. Nau Nihal Singh’s magnificent haveli is counted among the most majestic buildings of the city of Lahore. Nau Nihal Singh who once used it as his private residence added numerous specious chambers, halls and balconies. The roofs are embellished with paintings and stained glass work, all worked in gold. It is now government property used as Victoria Girls' High School.

Mai Jindan was the mother of the infant Sikh ruler, Dulip Singh. The Haveli of Mai Jindan dominates the eastern section of the Moti Mosque Quadrangle. This two-storey haveli was originally a Mughal structure but it is considered a Sikh haveli now because of the many additions by the Sikhs.

Another surviving haveli, known for the grandeur of its opulent façade is the Mubarak Haveli, just off Bazaar Hakeeman inside Bhati Gate. It was here that the Koh-e-Noor Diamond was recovered from a trapped Afghan king. The haveli was built by Mir Bahadur Ali, Mir Nadir Ali and Mir Bahar Ali, sons of a well-known 'tabeeb' and 'hakeem' during the time of Mughal emperor Muhammad Shah. It took three years to build and when the three brothers moved in, Bahadar Ali's wife gave birth to a son. This was seen as a good omen and the haveli was named Mubarak Haveli.

One of the most impressive places in Lahore is the Badshahi mosque built for the devoted Aurangzeb in 1673, by one of his brothers. This magnificent mosque is built from red sandstone and white marble and as many as sixty thousand people can offer prayer together. The Badshahi mosque also has a very special place in Islam as it contains some of the relics of Prophet Muhammed, such as a green coat, white trousers, a green turban and his footmark embedded in the stone. It also has some relics from his immediate family members like Hazrat Ali and daughter Fatima. The mosque complex also houses the mausoleum of the poet Allama Iqbal. A tablet of white marble on the outer face of this entrance has the following inscription (besides the Kalima): "The mosque of Abu Zafar Mohiuddin Muhammad Alamgir, the Ghazi King, completed under the superintendence of the humblest servant of the household, Fidai Khan Koka, in 1084 AH". The arched entrance opens on a large quadrangle paved with solid bricks, where each namazi's space is marked with a black border. Its exterior walls are painstakingly decorated with sculptured panels. Each corner is marked by a square tower capped with a red sandstone turret with a white marble cupola. To the west of this square is the mosque, with three domes built of marble. With its numerous chambers and halls, its minarets and domes, which freely use inlaid marble, this mosque emanates a calm that is surprising, considering its mammoth size. Built by the last of Great Mughals, Aurganzeb, it is among the largest mosques in the world. No doubt Aurangzeb, well-known for his piety, was fulfilling an urge to pay the most impressive tribute to God in the form of a grand mosque. Inspired by the Jamia Mosque of Delhi and Agra, which predate it, the Badshahi Mosque is even more massive than they are.

Outside the Badshahi Mosque in the Hazuri Bagh on the southeast of the main gateway of Badshahi Mosque stands the imposing tomb of Allama Iqbal, Pakistan's national poet. It took thirteen years to complete this structure. It was designed by Nawab Zain Yar Jang Bahadur, the chief architect of Hyderabad. The mausoleum has two gates with teak frames inlaid with marble. The inlay of the tomb, done in lapis lazuli, the most expensive architectural stone in Afghanistan, is a gift from the Afghan government. On the inside walls of the mausoleum are written six couplets of a ghazal of the poet from Zabur-e-Ajam which epitomize the message of Iqbal.

But more than its buildings and architecture, it is the warm, friendly and hospitable people of Lahore and the hustle and bustle of the city, which spin a magic web around any visitor. Shopping in the Anarkali bazaar for the famous Pakistani salwar kameezs are a must-buy. Named after the famous tragic figure of the Mughal period, Anarkali, whose remarkable mausoleum lies on the close by the Lower Mall, Anarkali Bazaar has been a favorite of shoppers for decades. The area outside Lohari gate of the Walled City was named after her and for several decades after the annexation of the Punjab, it was occupied by the British. Anarkali Bazaar is the most fascinating of the city's many bazaars. The alleys and lanes of this bazaar are full of exciting wears, especially traditional crafts like leather wear, embroidered garments glass bangles, beaten gold and silver jewelry, and silk creations.

Lahore's cuisine is delectable, fragrant and delicious. Its barbeques and kebabs are unrivalled in taste and presentation. The old city of Lahore, which is largely intact is full of surprises in every corner. The Mohalla Kakezaiya or mohalla of the Caucasians still lives on. Lahore became a melting pot and meeting ground of many cultures which has left its influence in the cuisine. For authentic Pakistani taste, turn to wayside shops like Paradise Canteen which serves the tastiest curries, Payas, Batairs and Biryani in town or visit Nanbai shops like Abdul Rehman’s in Old Anarkali, Mian Restaurant, Baghdadi in Shadman Market, Labha and one or two outlets in Sadar, Main Market Gulberg, Liberty, Khan Baba is popular for its Pakistani dishes well-cooked in ‘Desi ghee and its piping hot Barbecues. The most common sweet is barfi , which is made of dried milk solids and comes in a variety of flavors. Other sweetmeats include rabri or thickened milk, gulabjamuns, shahi tukda and a variety of other dairy based sweets.

Most flights from European and Asia arrive in Karachi, though a few also go to Islamabad, Lahore, Peshawar, Quetta and Gwadar (Baluchistan). Much more interesting is taking an overland route. A railway links Lahore with the Indian railway system through Amritsar, and another from Quetta crosses briefly into Iran. After the Grand Trunk Road, the most famous road into Pakistan is the Karakoram Highway, over the 4730m (15,514 ft) Khunjerab Pass from Kashgar in China; roads also run from India and Iran. A bus service between Delhi and Lahore, operating four times a week, is now up and running. Sea passage is a possibility, with cargo ships calling at Karachi from either the Middle East or Bombay.



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